Scientists Question Claims of T Rex DNA Used to Create Luxury Leather

A groundbreaking collaboration between creative agency VML and biotech firms Lab-Grown Leather Ltd. and The Organoid Company aims to produce luxury leather derived from reconstructed Tyrannosaurus rex DNA. Announced in April 2025, this partnership seeks to create a cruelty-free, environmentally sustainable alternative to traditional leather by harnessing ancient biology through modern technology.

The companies claim to use fossilized T. rex collagen fragments as a blueprint, employing artificial intelligence to reconstruct collagen sequences and engineer synthetic DNA. This DNA is then inserted into cells that grow into a material structurally identical to natural leather, but without the use of scaffolds, which are typically required for tissue engineering.

Despite the excitement, many scientists remain skeptical. Dinosaur DNA degrades too rapidly to be recovered intact, so the DNA used must be artificially reconstructed rather than directly extracted. Moreover, experts point out that leather is made from tanned skin, primarily composed of keratin-rich epithelial tissues, not collagen alone. This raises doubts about whether the resulting material can truly be considered "T. rex leather."

Mary Higby Schweitzer, a molecular paleontologist, emphasized that preserved skin samples of theropods like T. rex are extremely rare, and the companies have not clarified the source of their collagen. Synthetic biologist Christina Agapakis noted that while producing leather from cells has been attempted before, it remains a challenging endeavor, making this project intriguing but not yet proven.

Beyond the scientific debate, the initiative highlights the potential benefits of bio-engineered leather as a sustainable alternative to traditional leather, which is linked to deforestation and greenhouse gas emissions. However, consumers seeking sustainability might also consider thrifted or recycled materials as viable options.

The companies plan to launch fashion accessories first, aiming for a luxury flagship product by the end of 2025, with ambitions to expand into automotive and other industries. This project follows similar controversial biotech claims, such as Colossal Biosciences’ attempt to revive extinct species, underscoring a trend of leveraging scientific advances to create novel, if sometimes disputed, products.

The Science Behind Lab-Grown Leather

Collagen, a protein abundant in animal connective tissues, provides a structural framework but is not the primary component of leather, which is derived from skin tissues rich in keratin. The startup’s approach involves using AI to reconstruct collagen sequences from fossil fragments and then engineering synthetic DNA to produce these proteins in cultured cells. The 'scaffold-free' method allows cells to self-organize, potentially creating a material mimicking natural leather's texture and strength.

However, the inability to recover intact dinosaur DNA means the process relies heavily on computational reconstruction and synthetic biology, which introduces uncertainty about authenticity. Experts caution that while the material may be inspired by T. rex biology, it is unlikely to be genuine dinosaur leather.

Implications for Sustainable Fashion and Industry

This project exemplifies the growing interest in sustainable, lab-grown materials that reduce reliance on animal agriculture and its environmental impact. If successful, bio-engineered leather could revolutionize fashion, offering cruelty-free, customizable, and potentially more sustainable products. The planned expansion into automotive and other sectors highlights the broad applicability of such materials.

Nevertheless, consumers and industry stakeholders should critically evaluate claims and scientific validity when adopting new biotechnologies. The excitement around dinosaur DNA leather underscores the power of storytelling in marketing but also the importance of transparency and rigorous science in emerging tech.